How-To: Drywall Texturing

Textures add a great deal of interest to walls. The most important thing to remember about texturing is to be willing to experiment: there are many interesting and exciting ways to produce beautiful and unique textures for your walls.

NAP TEXTURE

Nap texture, which is done with a paint roller, is perhaps the easiest kind of texturing. Certainly, it requires the least amount of tools. Different types of rollers, of course, make different textures. A leather roller, for example, creates a unique look. Texture thickness varies, depending on nap thickness of the roller and paint thickness. Paint can be thickened by adding joint compound to it.
The illustrations show different nap textures. The big pattern in Figure 7-1 was made with a thick roller and thick joint compound. The patterns in Figure 7-2 were made with a fine nap roller and thin and medium joint compounds. The differences in texture are considerable.

ROLL-ON TEXTURE
Rolling on the joint compound creates a foundation for a series of textures.



ceiling or wall joints absorbs moisture more quickly than drywall paper does. Therefore, this texture must be rolled on thick enough to prevent the drywall from showing through, and fast enough that it doesn’t start to dry in particularly absorbent areas. Beginners should apply a coat of white primer to the ceiling before starting these textures. It requires some skill to put these textures on properly without primer.

Make the joint compound thin enough that you can roll it on the ceiling, but not so thin that it falls off the roller. Pick an area about six feet by six feet at one end of the room as a starting place. Roll on the joint compound, no thicker than is absolutely needed. The thinner it is, the more attractive the texture will be. Roll in one direction, (say, north to south). Start at one end and then, with a second roller, full of joint compound, start at the opposite end. This way, you will distribute the thick areas from both ends. Do about six rows, and then start smoothing the joint compound across in the opposite direction (say, east to west). Don’t apply any more joint compound! Just smooth it across the opposite direction so it has a uniform thickness. (See Figure 7-3.)



When rolling the six-foot-area square, overlap the first area so the texture can be cut in without showing. Be careful not to daub on a half-dw area because that would change the texture, and the difference would be noticeable. Be careful to get the joint compound the same thickness all over the ceiling because different thicknesses change the texture. See Figure 7-3 for roll-on technique. If an area is partially dry by the time you start daubing there, simply roll over it again to moisten it.

BRUSH PATTERNS
After rolling on the joint compound, you can make interesting patterns with a brush. (See Figure 7-4.) If you want rows, make them straight for a pleasing appearance It’s better to stagger the brush marks, making an irregular pattern, which, incidentally is easier to repair than a regular pattern. This texture will get a lot of joint compound on the walls, which can be remedied by a process called glazing. The process is simple- just cover the lower part of the top angle with joint compound and drag it off tight. This joint compound can also be lifted off with a knife, but this method will leave edges and will have to be sanded. Choose the method you find easier.



SWIRLS
After rolling the joint compound, you can make swirls with a brush. Swirls are made best with the roll-on method. Instead of daubing the brush on the drywall, just place the brush and twist. Remember, when doing swirls, they must be lined up in straight lines. Use a chalk line to guide you. You can also twist the joint compound and pull it out in tips. For bigger tips, use thinner joint compound and put it on thicker. Different textures can be made with a small whisk broom, a brush, or even a lid. Try using different objects on a scrap piece of drywall.

A small kitchen scrub brush was used for the swirls here in Figure 7-5. Keep the swirls in the first row all about the same size, and make the row straight. Use the first row as a guide to keep the other ones straight. Check each row against the first row, not the one you just did, because you will begin to swerve. Overlap each row by the same amount to assure continuity and a regular pattern.

USING HOUSEHOLD OBJECTS TO MAKE PATTERNS
The textures in Figure 7-6 was made after rolling on the joint compound smoothly. Notice the household objects in the illustration. The small scrub brush




FIGURE 7-6 Using household objects for patterns.

was used to make the swirls. The lid was used in two ways: The flat side of the lid was pushed into the joint compound and pulled out, causing it to suck up some joint compound. The flower design in that texture was made with the underside of the lid. The glass was used to make design the left. Other effects can be achieved by pressing heavy woven materials against joint compound and taking it off, leaving an imprint. All kinds of objects can be used: sponges, paper, spatulas, screens and so on. Use your imagination, and create your own designs.

SPRAY TEXTURE ACOUSTIC

Acoustic-type textures can be rolled on with prepared mixes. These textures look better with a coat of primer underneath. You will need an air compressor and hopper. For spray textures shown in Figure 7-8 you will also need a roll of plastic to cover


FIGURE 7-8 (Courtesy Gold Bond and Wal-Board Tool Co.)

all your windows and doors. Cover any furniture or carpets because this texture sprays all over. A drywall knife will be needed to scrape the walls after the texture has been sprayed. A ten- or twelve-inch knife is best for this task. After you prepare the mix, fill the hopper about halfway and spray the ceiling. You must cover all the drywall.

You can make the mixture as thick as you want. However, don’t let it collect in globs that drip or run. Spray evenly and lightly, going back to make it thicker so it doesn’t run. Spray this texture in the same way that you would paint an area with spray paint. Don’t stay on one spot or even hesitate, or the texture will run. Experiment on a scrap piece of drywall for practice. If the texture is too thick, scrape it off with a knife and start over. After you complete one area, a helper can scrape the walls off. The texture comes off very easily.

SPARKLE
Sparkle can be used on any texture. Put it on while the joint compound is still wet, and it will stick easily. You can buy a tool at the drywall supply to throw the sparkle evenly. It’s just like a seed thrower. You can throw the sparkle by hand, but it probably won’t be even. If the surface will need paint, put the sparkle on while the paint is wet, and it will stick well.

THE STOMP TEXTURE
The stomp is an interesting texture. To create it, you will need a special tool. This tool I call the dobber can be made with scrap materials such as a round piece of wood, an old frying pan lid or anything round and about ten inches in diameter. In addition, you will need a one-by-one piece of wood about three feet long, or an old broom handle. You will also need a piece of insulation, carpet padding, or thin foam rubber to pad the dauber. Finally, you will need a plastic garbage bag and a piece of two- or three- inch tape about two feet long. Nail the pole onto the round
piece of wood, and cover it with your padding material. Cover that with plastic, pulling it down around the handle and taping it. This tool should fit into the bucket of joint compound you are using. (See Figure 7-9.)

You will also need to trowel the texture down smooth. To do this you can use a cement trowel or a ten- or twelve-inch knife. If you use a knife, bend each corner up a little so it won't cut into the joint compound.

There are tools you can buy to make the same texture, but they aren’t as effective. This texture can also be blown on with an air compressor and hopper, then troweled down flat, like the spray texture described (Figure 7-8 Wall Spray



Stomp texture is good for accent walls. Paint a wall in an accent color and then texture over it, allowing the color to show through the pattern. Textured join compound can be colored to give a two-tone color. This type wall must be sealed

For a fine pattern, use the joint compound straight out of the bucket; just mix it so it comes out more evenly. For bigger patterns, add some water to thin the joint compound. The thicker the pattern, the thinner the joint compound should be. Thinner compound goes on in bigger globs and spreads out more when it is troweled. The stiffer the joint compound, the finer the texture. Put the dauber into the joint compound and apply it to the wall. The joint compound should cover the dauber in globs. If you want to, hit the wall in circles. Overlap them so you can’t see definite circles. Hit the joint compound once and the wall three times for the best results. Don’t try making circles out of a texture unless you mark off the ceiling and get all the lines straight. Continue to refer back to the starting line to keep the pattern the same. It’s easy for the pattern to change a bit as you move around the room.

After you have daubed an area for about ten minutes, you will need to check where you started, to see if it is ready to start troweling down. If one person starts daubing a room, that person needs to finish that room. A different person will daub a different pattern.

TROWELING THE STOMP
When the edges start looking white where they are drying, you need to stop daubing and trowel down. If you start troweling and the joint compound flattens out to the drywall, it is too wet. The trowel should float over the joint compound and knock down the high areas, spreading them into a pattern. If you trowel it wetter, it will spread out more and be a bigger pattern. For a smaller pattern, let it dry more so it will be more set up. The texture should be about 1/32 inch thick after it is troweled down. This is ideal for painting, cleaning, and a neat appearance.

Start troweling from the edge of the area and move to the middle. This way, you won’t leave trowel marks in the joint compound. Around edges next to walls and corners, press some joint compound into the corner. The reason for this is that the dauber can’t get closer than two or three inches from the corner.

The wall shown in Figure 7-10 was painted brown and then daubed; it was not troweled down. The joint compound was Gold Bond joint compound, used straight out of the box. Taping joint compound was used because of its hardness. This texture needs to be sealed with clear lacquer so it can be washed. Otherwise, because the joint compound is water soluble, it would melt away and smear all over the wall when washed.

The background shown in Figure 7-11 was painted a dark color. The illustration shows the results of using two slightly different techniques. The left side was done by daubing the joint compound once and the wall five or six times. The right side



was done by daubing the joint compound once and the wall three to four times, spreading it out a little more.

The wall shown in Figure 7-12 was painted a dark color, then stomp-textured with Gold Bond taping joint compound straight from the box. The Wall has to be sealed with clear lacquer to make it washable.

COVERING OLD TEXTURES
The wall shown in Figure 7-13 was painted green; then the same paint was mixed into joint compound. When the wall was textured, is came out a two-toned green



The green textured surface was textured over with a regular white joint compound. The result was a three-toned wall. This texture was done to show how effective this texture could be in covering over another ugly texture or a wall damaged in some way, like a wall that has had glued panelling or something. A rough surface can be camouflaged very well.

The wall shown in Figure 7-14 is dramatic and unusual. First, it was painted gold, and then black paint was mixed into the joint compound. The combination creates a dark charcoal color. This wall must be sealed with lacquer. When you get tired of a wall like this, you can always paint it white; the texture will still make it an interesting wall. If you are in the remodeling business or are trying to sell your home, a wall like this can make a good impression.

How-To: Drywall Finishing (Part IV)

SECOND COATING INSIDE WINDOWS
A six-inch knife is recommended. Spread joint compound on and smooth it down, watching for scratch marks and air bubbles. Don't build. any more than you have to and keep corners square and neat. Make sure the joint compound is filled all



the way to the bottom, if the area is getting a window seal. The inside of the window needs to look good, since it’s always well lit. Almost all builders check inside the windows. If you are doing a second coat, and they need a third coat, it would be worth your while to skim it again. They dry fast and can be coated again easily.

SECOND COATING DOORWAYS
Skim the sides of doorways with a twelve-inch knife in the same way as you did the outside of the windows. The inside of the doorways and ends of walls have a lot of joint compound in the narrow center, and it normally needs to be filled quite a bit on the second coat. The insides of doors, like the insides of windows, catch light and usually need a third coat. Closet doorways aren’t as important as the doorways between the kitchen and dining room, of course. While coating metal and butts that go to the floor, be sure to carry the joint compound to within an inch from the floor. Avoid leaving globs of joint compound at the bottom. This area needs to be kept neat, or it can interfere with the floor molding.

SECOND COATING FLAT JOINTS
Three different situations occur with flat joints:

Situation 1. Your first coat was done with an eight-inch knife, and you don’t need a wide joint. In this situation, use a ten-inch knife for the second coat.

Situation 2. Your first coat was done with a ten-inch knife. In this situation, use a twelve-inch knife for easy covering.

Situation 3. Your first coat was done with a twelve-inch knife, and you need a wide joint. In this situation, overlap each side two inches.

No matter how the joint is coated, when you’re skimming, it needs to be pulled off straight down the middle so your knife straddles the joint recess. Then pull the sides off with one stroke down one side and back on the other. By pulling joint compound off the center, you will be able to see all the high and low spots. If the area needs building on one side or the other, build accordingly. If the area will be getting only two coats, you will need to be careful and neat. If the area will be getting three coats, you can build it correctly now. (See Figure 6-31.)

SECOND COATING BOTH SIDES OF ANGLES
Two different situations occur when applying the second coat to both sides
of angles:



FIGURE 6-31 Second coating flat joints

After putting the joint compound on the joint, pull knife straight down the middle, going in one direction. Feather edge on top side; then, coming back , feather the other side. Turn knife over and smooth it down if needed.

Situation 1. The first coat was done with joint compound. In this situation make sure the center is dry. Otherwise, the joint compound will roll up in the center

Situation 2. The first coat was done with quick set, so you don't have any drying problem. In this situation, the second coat will be a tight skim done with a five or six-inch knife. While skimming the joint compound off hold your knife out with its side edge running along the center and braced against the other side. When you did your first coat, you skimmed off the same side first. On this second coat, reverse the procedure, skimming off the second side first. This way, if you have a crack to fill, you will be sure to fill both sides. If you used a soft joint compound on the first coat you will have to be careful when holding your knife straight out. When you use adjacent wall as support, you can cut a groove into the soft joint compound. In this case, you might have to make yourself a knife with straight sides simply by taking an old knife and cutting its sides down straight.

SECOND COATING ANGLES, ONE SIDE AT A TIME
The second side is done exactly the same way as the first side. Hold the knife out and let the side edge ride against the other side for support. Be neat, as this method has only one coat. You will need to spend some time on it to get it exact. Any flaws can be sanded out. If the angle from the first coat isn’t dry yet, don’t bother coating the second side. It will only make a mess.

SECOND COATING NAILS
Use the same procedure as you did for the second coat. Nails around doors don’t have to be coated this time unless they are fairly deep and you think they might show after the framing is in. Avoid having to come back just to coat a nail. You may have places where the rough edges have caught the knife and caused ripples. These areas need to be coated crossways. Unless the hangers have dimpled the nails too deep, this should be your last coat, so be neat and overlap any edges.

SECOND COATING RECEPTACLE BOXES
If the first coat was done vertically, the second should be done horizontally. This way, you will be sure to fill any ridges and imperfections. Skim off tight across the middle first, as this always needs to be filled.

FUR DOWNS
Apply the second coat to the fur down with a twelve-inch knife in the same way you did the first coat. Overlap by a couple of inches and pull the joint compound off loose so it can build where it needs to. Refer to Figure 6-24 for review.

SECOND COATING PIPES AND BATHTUBS
The areas around pipes and bathtubs need to be skimmed tight.

PATCHES
Any patches where the tape had to be overlapped should be coated the opposite way from the first coat. All bad places need to be coated both ways.

PREPARATION FOR THE THIRD COAT
I If the walls will be painted with enamel, you will have to be very neat with the third coat. You will need a tight skim with no sanding. If you sand a joint it will be smoother than the paper covering the drywall, and the joint will show up. Therefore if you plan to use enamel paint, sand very well now so the joints can be skimmed tight and smooth without sanding.

BUTTS AND METAL
Sand butt joints and metal the same way you sanded them in preparation for the second coat. The wall should be smooth all the way to the bottom. Cut away the globs, or the trim won’t be neat.

ANGLES
Angles won’t need another coat unless you have problems. If you have coated one side at a time, you can now skim both sides if they need it.

NAILS
Nails won’t need another coat unless they were very deep. You can tell if they need another coat by looking at a wall that has a window at one end of it This wall will show every flaw.

BASTARD ANGLES AND JOINTS
Any joint that has flex bead used on it must be sanded very carefully. Take care not to sand the paper edge on the joint compound.

RECEPTACLE BOXES AND FLATS
Receptacle boxes and flats must be sanded lightly. Joint compound should be cleaned out of receptacle boxes.

THE THIRD COAT

PREPARING JOINT COMPOUND
The joint compound for the third coat needs to be fairly thin because you will be skimming everything off tight. The goal is to fill any shallow joints, scratches, or nicks left from other coats. Doing this will cut your final sanding time by about 70%.

A METHOD TO MAKE YOU FASTER
If you have an untrained helper, you can utilize this person’s time in the following way. Have your helper roll the joint compound on the joints with a paint roller. Then, you follow and skim it off tight. Do not let the person rolling on the joint compound get too far ahead of the person skimming it off, because the edges dry quickly. The purpose of this technique is to produce a smooth job and to eliminate edges. If you do it right, you won’t have to use sandpaper at all. You should have two buckets, one to roll the joint compound from and the other to empty your pan into. Before reusing the joint compound, you will have to mix it up again to eliminate globs and make it easier to skim off smoothly. This method enables your untrained help to be more productive.

THIRD COATING BUTT JOINTS
A twelve-inch knife is recommended, since almost all butt joints need to be coated crossways. This is to eliminate the ripples in the joint compound caused by an unsteady knife. All receptacle boxes, butt joints, flex bead joints, and bastard angles need to be coated crossways.

The butts are always the first thing to coat, since they require the most drying time. If a butt joint still needs to be built a little, it might dry in time for you to skim it crossways again before you leave. Butts along the bottom of the wall have a common mistake: globs of joint compound on the bottom next to the floor. Eventually, you will have to clean this up, and it’s better to do it now. Scrape off this joint compound and coat crossways if needed. The trim must fit flush against the wall.

THIRD COATING METAL
In the kitchen, a receptacle box is often close to the door, which is wrapped with metal corner bead. This is a problem area. See Figure 6-32 for tips on how to coat this. Use a twelve-inch knife and coat it sideways.

THIRD COATING 45° ANGLES
Outside corners where flex bead was used will need to be coated sideways for the third coat.

THIRD COATING FLATS
Spread joint compound to overlap previous joint compound slightly, and skim it off tight. Always pull the knife along the recess to make sure it is filled in. Then skim off each side with the same stroke of the knife. Skim one side while pulling the knife one way, and then turn your knife around and pull off the other side on the way back. Save strokes where you can.



Switch box next to the metal corner bead-wrapped doorways usually are a problem area because the flat joint dead ends at the doorway, and the metal is filled vertically So this time coat is cross ways.

THIRD COATING ANGLES
The angles should be finished, unless you have a problem angle with a wide crack that needs to be filled. If anything, coat problem bastard angles crossways with a twelve-inch knife. If you have coated one side at a time, you should have both sides coated now. If at you have used quick set, you can follow the directions from the second coat for angles. Just hold the knife out from the wall so the angles will be square and the edge of the knife wont slide back into the recess. Hold the knife out straight from wall and skim.

THIRD COATING RECEPTACLE BOXES
If a third coat is necessary for the receptacle boxes, coat them in the direction most needed.

SANDING
Many people think that anyone can sand, but this is not true. Only a trained person should finish sand because this stage needs to be done right. This is your final product. See the next post or the chart in Figure 6-33 for the type of sandpaper you should use for each type of final coating. As you sand, keep an eye out for ridges, knife marks, and scratches. Also watch for problem spots such as the bottoms of butt joints, doorways, and end walls where the joint compound comes all the way down to the floor.

SANDING BUTT JOINTS
When sanding butt joints, be careful not to sand into the tape. If the butt joint is coated right, the tape will be close to the surface. If you do sand into the tape, coat it over with joint compound again so it won’t stick up and show when painted. Watch for ridges and scratches. Always check the bottoms next to the floor. Scrape off any globs of joint compound and coat crossways to fill any deep ripples.

SANDING METAL
When sanding metal, the edges of metal that are showing should be free of joint compound. When the metal is clean and shiny, it will look good, saving you a lot of trouble later.



SANDING INSIDE WINDOWS
Inside windows need to look neat. You should scrape off any joint compound against the metal window. As you do this, take care not to scratch the metal or the window.

SANDING BASTARD JOINTS AND 45° JOINTS
When sending bastard joints and 45° joints, be careful not to sand into the paper edge of the metal edge tape.

SANDING FLATS
Flats are usually the easiest to sand. Watch for any knife marks and ridges where a piece of joint compound on the wall has caught the knife and caused a ridge.

SANDING ANGLES
When sanding corners, do not sand into the center. If you push the sander into the center, the side of the paper on the sander will cut into the adjacent corner. If something is in the center or small pieces of joint compound are left on it, the best thing to do is to fold up a piece of sandpaper and run it down the center. A second option is to keep a corner on your sander worn (if you are using a hand sander) and use only that corner-not the side. Don’t try this with a pole sander
because you don’t have good control over it. A third option is to just carry a knife and run it down the center to knock off any pieces of joint compound.

SANDING NAILS
To sand nails, simply run the sander around the edges.

SANDING RECEPTACLE BOXES
Before sanding receptacle boxes, clean joint compound out of the inside; it will fall out with just a little help. Sand the area smooth, being careful not to sand into any tape, which should be close to the surface. It’s a good idea to take a utility knife and cut out the boxes that were taped. Sometimes, an electrician might pull the tape up while trimming the box. You don’t want to have to come back and fix it.

SANDING AROUND TUB AND SHOWER UNITS
In tub and shower units, the edges next to the joint compound should be cleaned off. Scraping with a knife or a sander will scratch into the fiberglass. The best way to clean the fiberglass is to wet it, let it sit a few minutes, and then lift it off with a knife.

CLEANING DOOR FRAMES
Plaster is easy to clean if you wet down the area that needs to be cleaned. After three or four minutes, the plaster softens and is easy to remove.

THE FINAL PRODUCT

QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER
Before you sand, you need to know how the walls will be finished. In preparing this job for the painter (or for yourself, if you will be painting it), you will need answers to the following questions:

1. What kind of paint will be used?


2. What kind of texture, if any, will it have?


3. How will the job be done-with spray or with a roller?

IF YOU’RE USING A PROFESSIONAL PAINTER
Some painters need to see sand marks into the paper or they aren’t happy. This is why you need to talk to the painter before you sand, if possible. Ask the three questions and discuss the kind of job the painter prefers. The painter can give you a lot of trouble, so it is in your own best interests to get along. If the painter isn’t sold on your job, you will probably have to come back and fix it.

PAINTING METHODS
There are two painting methods for smooth walls: spray painting and roller painting. To prepare for spray painting, do not sand into the paper-stay on the joint compound. Any paper fuzz will catch the paint and hold it away from the wall. The result would be that at different angles, dark places would be visible underneath.

If you fuzz up the paper by mistake, it can be fixed only by sponging the walls down with water, which can be time consuming. Sometimes, you will be asked to sponge the joints rather than sand them.

To prepare for roller painting, you won’t have to worry about fuzz because the roller will press it down. Roller painting hides much more than spray. It can hide even better if you put a little joint compound into the paint and mix it up about half and half or whatever thickness you want. This is called a roller texture.

Smooth Walls, Spray Method, Enamel Paint
This is the most difficult method because this procedure shows everything. Walls done this way need three neat coats. Any imperfections will show, so never sand.

If joints are sanded, they will be smoother than the paper surface on the drywall. This difference will show. Preparation for this method starts after the second coat. Sand very well, skim the third coat on tight, and don’t sand it again. Some finishers skim the entire wall, depending on what the builder wants.

Smooth Walls, Spray Method, Semi Gloss Paint
All smooth walls need three coats. For this method, sand very carefully, taking care not to sand into the paper. It’s important to avoid getting fuzz on the surface. For any spray paint and smooth walls, use 100 grit sandpaper; 80 grit will leave scratches that may show.

Smooth Walls, Roller Method, Enamel Paint
This situation requires three coats and is best without sanding. The roller will help, but it will still be hard to hide the differences in the surface between the joint compound and the paper.

Smooth Walls, Roller Method, Semi Gloss and Flat Paint
Use 100 grit sandpaper. Sand well and don’t worry about fuzz. This surface needs three coats or two neat coats.

Nap Texture, Roller Method, Enamel Paint
This situation requires three coats or two neat ones. Sand with 80 grit or 100 grit sandpaper because this texture is very light.

Nap Texture, Roller Method, Semi Gloss and Flat Paint
For this situation, use two neat coats. Sand with 80 grit or 100 grit sandpaper.

Light Spray Texture, Spray Method, Enamel Paint
This situation requires two very neat coats. Sand lightly with 80 grit or 100 grit sandpaper. This texture will hide small imperfections, but it will show bad joints.

Light Spray Texture, Spray Method, Semi Gloss or Flat Paint
This situation requires two neat coats. Sand lightly with 80 grit or 100 grit

Medium to Heavy Spray Texture, Spray Method, Any Paint
For any kind of paint, use two coats and no sanding. This texture will hide most bad joints, shallow metal, scratches, and so on.

How-To: Drywall Finishing (Part III)

FIGURE 6-22 Applying joint compound to metal on wall ends

Some windows are not metaled all the way around, so they can have a sill attached. When coating the inside, coat all the way to the bottom of the sides. Make the corners square, neat, and clean of joint compound. Now continue at step 4. Fill sides 5 and 6 Feather edge and smooth down, as shown in step 5. If there is no windowsill, proceed to the bottom side. If there is a windowsill, proceed as in the center bottom picture. Make sure you blend in the bottom corner



FIGURE 6-23 Detail of metal wrapped windows

Sometimes the metal is bowed between nails. If the metal isn’t loose but still shows after being coated, try coating it more loosely. Fill with more joint compound, If you are having difficulty learning to build, take a knife, put joint compound evenly across the blade, and lightly cover the bad spot. Use the edge of the metal to brace the knife so you don’t dig into the fresh joint compound. This will look rough, but it’s more important to get this area covered. You can sand off the roughness later, before you apply the second coat. If the metal is loose, it will have to be taped and then covered.

FUR DOWNS IN KITCHENS AND BATHROOMS
It is very hard to build fur down corners straight and square. These corners will test your hand control. Fill all three sides and about two feet along the side of the end of the fur down with joint compound (see Figure 6-24). Feather edge all outside edges first. Now, beginning with side 2, start at the wall to get the feel of the proper knife angle. Pull the knife from the wall and float it past the corner. Keep the knife



resting on the metal, and avoid cutting into the joint compound at the corner. Now come down across the same corner, holding the knife against the metal to steady it. Float the knife over the metal. Fill the corner, making it square. Now start on side l. Pull the knife along the bottom toward the corner. Holding pressure against the metal, pull the knife past the corner, floating on top of the joint compound at the corner. Then float from the top across the corner in the same way as you did side 2. Now do side 3 in the same manner.

FIRST COATING FLAT JOINTS
Flats are the easiest joints to finish. Two coats on a flat joint will make only a small line down the middle-is the worst. (You get this only when you coat over the tape wet.) Use the recess to make a flat wall. Coat right across the recess. A good flat joint, taped correctly, should need a joint no more than six inches across to be perfectly flat. None of the joints will be perfect, though, so use a ten-inch knife to coat them. Spread the joint compound over the joint about three feet or as far as a knife-full of joint compound will go. Feather edge each side, and then lay the knife down and
smooth it down. You shouldn’t be leaving any joint compound anywhere but in the recess. The knife should be touching the board on each side of the recess. By the time you’re done, you should see only six or seven inches of solid joint compound. Spread joint compound as far as you can along the flat joint. (See Figure 6-25.)

Clean both sides of the knife. Feather edge the top side going in one direction. When coming back, feather edge the bottom side. You’ll have joint compound on the other side of the knife, so flip it over to the clean side and lay it down to smooth the center. If you always feather edge with one side of your knife and smooth with the other, your knife will develop a bow, which will make your work easier.

TWISTED JOINTS
In commercial work where the walls are framed with metal studs, you’ll find a lot of bad flat joints (see Figure 6-26.), usually caused either by the hangers or by poor materials. Even though the joint is perfectly flat from recess to recess, the wall changes direction at the side of the recess. A yardstick placed across the joint will show that these joints need to be rounded out. It’s impossible to make a flat joint where the wall comes to a point, so it needs to be camouflaged to look flat. This type of wall casts a shadow. If you can catch this type of joint while the job is being




FIGURE 6-25 First coat on flat joints



with metal studs. Metal studs twist easily if they are made of low-gauge materials. For a twisted metal stud, you need to coat around the high recessed edge. If you can’t avoid the problem at the hanging stage, the joint must be built out, just like a bad butt joint. Keep in mind that the low side gets built up to 'meet the high side. If these places are extremely uneven, build them out with building strips just like the butt joint. The high point will be one side of the recess (Figure 6-26).

COATING ACROSS WET BUTT JOINTS
Often, the joint compound on a butt joint will still be wet when you are ready to first coat the flats. If so, spread joint compound right across the wet butt joint, trying to spread evenly and not leave globs on the wet part. _Feather edge, except across the wet joint compound. Skip that part. Lay your knife down and smooth the joint compound across the joint, putting pressure on the opposite side of the knife when crossing the butt joint. If you leave a small ridge but it ‘is built right, leave it. You can take care of the ridge later, but you can’t build later without wasting time and causing trouble.

COATING BASTARD ANGLES
At this point, bastard angles should have some sort of metal edge tape on them. Coat loosely and don’t put pressure on the edge of the paper because it will skin up leaving a rough edge. If you have taped the flex bead properly, it will be easy to coat. Watch this edge when sanding or scraping it after coating.

COATING INSIDE ANGLES ONE SIDE AT A TIME
Two different procedures are used for coating angles: coating one side at a time perfectly, so it needs only one coat, or coating both sides at once and coating them twice. Really good finishers can coat both sides at once with only one coat. Most finishers coat one side at a time, usually with a six-inch knife. The goal of this method is to coat one side perfectly smooth, and then go back after that dries and coat the adjacent side. The angle has to be coated perfectly smooth, because it takes too much time to dry two coats (unless you’re using quick set method)

Here’s the procedure: First, spread joint compound on one side of the angle. Then feather edge down the outside. Lay the knife down, and very carefully pull it down the angle. When this side is the way you want it, clean the opposite side the knife against the opposite side and pull joint compound down it. Take care not to scrape the first side. Then feather edge and smooth down, the same as the first side. This procedure is by far the easiest way for a beginner to turn out a neat angle-but it is more time consuming than coating both sides at once.

COATING BOTH SIDES OF AN ANGLE AT ONCE
This procedure is most effective if you use thick joint compound and spread it thin. If you put on a heavy coat, you will create a line down the center of the angle, which will call for another coat. You don’t need to cover the tape completely in the corner: if the tape has been put on correctly, it will look fine by the time it is painted. To ensure that your angles are square, use a four-inch knife, it allows the best control and accuracy.

Here’s the procedure: First, spread joint compound on both sides of the angle. Feather edge both outside edges. Then hold your knife at a 90° angle from the wall and pull down the first side, resting the knife against the opposite side. This will smooth the first side and take off about 1/4 inch of joint compound from the center of the second side, preventing build-up in the center and keeping the angle clean and neat. When you smooth the joint compound on the second side, hold the knife at a 45° angle (or less) and at an outward slant (point your guide finger into the center).

This way, only one corner of the knife will be working the center. As you pull the knife down the angle, put pressure on the inside corner, forcing the joint compound to become smooth in the center and pushing the excess outward. (See Figure 6-27.)

Work to perfect your technique so you don’t need any feather edging at all and you can produce excellent angles with only one coat. It pays to make a habit of skimming the right side first with the first coat, and the left side first with the second coat. This way, any center line is eliminated.

PROBLEM AREAS IN INSIDE ANGLES
It is common for two pieces of corner drywall not to fit tightly. Drywall is hung with a gap between boards to allow for house movement and settling. However, some cracks are larger than they should be. These should have been prefilled before taping, but if they still need work, they can be filled and taped a second time. If the crack is really wide, it can be flat taped. (If you’re in a hurry, use quick set.) Here’s the procedure: Spread joint compound on both sides and feather edge each outside edge. Smooth the good side first, holding the knife out at a 90° angle from the wall. This way the side of the knife is fairly straight and will



FIGURE 6-27 Knife positioning for inside angles

the second side (the deep crack), lay the knife down and use the corner of the knife to smooth it out. Take care not to dig into the Center and pull out any joint compound-stay on the solid drywall. This side will probably have to be coated again when the joint compound shrinks.

FIRST COATING TOP ANGLES
A top angle is the corner that touches with the ceiling. In this angle, butts angle. When coating these angles, you can coat right across partially set joint compound. If you leave a knife mark across the joint, don’t worry about it. If you use a four-inch knife on the first coat and a six-inch knife on the second coat, the knife will overlap this area, filling the low spot.

FIRST COATING 45° ANGLES
Coat one side of a 45 ° angle at a time unless it is a very good angle. If a weaving in it makes it crooked, build with your twelve-inch knife sideways. Build it right with this first coat. You will need to use the second coat for smoothing it out. If the angle is really crooked, you may need to put flex bead on it.

FIRST COATING ELECTRICAL OUTLETS (LIGHT BOXES)
Electrical outlet holes tend to be uneven, with a high and a low side. They need to be coated in two directions. Get into the habit of coating them in one direction for the first coat and then in the opposite direction for the second coat. For example, first coat horizontally, and second coat vertically. Use a twelve-inch knife, spreading joint compound completely across the outlet. If wires are sticking out, roll them up and push them inside so your knife will float across it. Feather edge each side and smooth over, making it no thicker than necessary. The joint compound will fall out of the hole when it dries, so don’t worry about covering it.

FIRST COATING PIPES
Use a five- or six-inch knife and spread joint compound around the pipe, feather edging and smoothing around it.

FIRST COATING AROUND BATHTUBS
Spread joint compound on with a four-, five-, or six-inch knife; feather edge and smooth by laying the knife down.

FIRST COATING NAILS
When the house was taped, all the nails should have been hammered and coated with joint compound, so now you need to take a hammer through the house and tap in any paper that is torn or sticking out. Hammer in any nails' that might have



FIGURE 6-28 Knife position for coating nails

of the board. Now coat the nails again, using one stroke across and one back. If you coat each set of nails separately you will be making six strokes. Save yourself some time! (For more details about this procedure, see also Figure 6-19.)

PREPARATION FOR THE SECOND COAT
When you applied the first coat, you put on a thick layer of joint compound. That thick layer will shrink, crack, and harden, making the edges stick up and catch your knife when you are applying the second coat. This will create lines of joint compound that will have to be sanded out later. Avoid this problem by sanding off those edges before you begin applying the second coat. You are sanding not for smoothness but to get anything off that might catch your knife. You also want to remove the small hard pieces of leftover joint compound that will break off and cause
streaks in later coats.

SANDING BUTTS
Just smooth off the top edges of butt joints. Then run over lightly to remove any pieces that are sticking up.

SANDING METAL
Metal needs more sanding than anything else. Be sure to clean off the corner edges of the metal; these pieces will fall off in the joint compound when second coating.

SANDING INSIDES OF WINDOWS
Push the sander against the insides of windows to break off any joint compound pieces that are sticking out. Also, clean the inside corners well: these areas really need to be square. Any joint compound left in these corners will cause ugly drag streaks. Look for ridges where the knife left off.

SANDING FLATS

SANDING ANGLES
It usually is not necessary to sand angles unless they have been coated with thick joint compound. Don’t sand the edge where flex bead was used. It s made of paper, and it will tear easily.

SANDING RECEPTACLE BOXES
Break loose all the joint compound that’s inside the receptacle boxes. It usually sticks out where it settles. Sand these areas well.

SANDING PIPES
Press the side of the sander against the pipe to break off the edges and any globs of joint compound that are on the pipe.

SANDING NAILS
Sometimes the paper doesn't stay tucked in, so just tap such pieces with the end of the knife. In addition, if a ridge was made where the knife was caught by the paper, sand it.

SANDING AROUND BATHTUB AND SHOWER UNITS
Sand lightly around bathtub and shower units, making Sure not to Sand into the tape. Break off the joint compound around the edges of the shower unit. Obviously, you don't want to sand the bathtub or shower unit itself because it scratches easily.


THE SECOND COAT
For the second coat, the joint compound needs to be thinned down a little, so it spreads smoothly and leaves no air bubbles. The purpose of this coat is to smooth the surface. If the first coat was done correctly, you wont need to worry about building anything up. There are three different situations you might face with the second coat.

THE FIRST SITUATION
If the first coat was done with quick set and you are doing only two coats, you only need to smooth the surface and make it look good. Build only when absolutely necessary. This coat should be a loose skim coat.

THE SECOND SITUATION
If the first coat was done with joint compound and you are doing only two coats, the joint compound will probably have shrunk, and you will still have to build some. It’s difficult to apply a lot of joint compound and still keep it smooth. You may have to work with it.

THE THIRD SITUATION
If the first coat was done with joint compound and you are doing three coats, you can build with the second coat and not worry about it looking perfect. The third coat will cover any scratches and problem spots. This is where you can save time: you don’t need to play with the second at all.

SECOND COATING BUTT JOINTS
A twelve-inch knife is recommended. Cover the entire butt joint with joint compound, keeping in mind where you have built and where you still need to build. (See Figure 6-29.) Skim the entire joint, pulling joint compound off, but remember where the low areas are. Straddle them, leaving the joint compound there. If you are doing only two coats, you will have to be neat. Bad butt joints usually don’t look good unless they have a third coat. If you have a really bad joint and are doing only two coats, you might mix some quick set so you can skim the surface again before you leave. Also, where the joint compound is thick, it will have some ripples, so a sideways coating will look better. A receptacle box in the middle of the joint should be coated sideways.

SECOND COATING GOOD BUTT JOINTS
For good butt joints, use a twelve-inch knife to spread joint compound, overlapping at least three or four inches each side. When pulling the joint compound off, you need to straddle the middle and sides of the joint with the knife. This joint should be flat across the top with a gradual slope at each side. This coat should ill all the low spots and skim the high ones, leaving the surface flat and smooth.



FIGURE 6-29 Second coating butt joints

SECOND COATING METAL
Metal should be skimmed very loosely with a twelve-inch knife. Joint compound should be thinned a little and mixed smooth to avoid air bubbles. Metal picks up small pieces of dried joint compound, making it difficult to keep out the streaks. When the joint compound picks up a lot of dried joint compound, you should dump it into an extra bucket and get some fresh joint compound. The problem of streaks in the joint compound can be minimized if you hold your knife down. This leaves the right amount of joint compound on the metal and also pushes the small pieces of dried joint compound down, burying them instead of dragging them along. Don’t
put too much pressure on the knife, or it can pull off too much joint compound. Most metal will still need some building to make it square.

SECOND COATING WINDOWS AND DOORWAYS
Windows and doorways are the most difficult areas to build. Spread joint compound in the same way as you did for the first coat. Corners that have been the first coat. Remember when pulling joint compound off, hold the knife down loosely. Spread joint compound, feather edge, and smooth down loosely. If the of the window has not been built right or if it has a low spot, you can smooth it out and fill the low spot, as shown in Figure 6-30.

How-To: Drywall Finishing (Part II)

• STEP 1 Remove the drywall that has been broken.


• STEP 2 Put only enough tape across the hole to hold in the joint compound that we are prefilling with.


• STEP 3 Press the joint compound in the hole over the tape we have just put down.


• STEP 4 Tape the entire problem area by overlapping the tape only half the width
  of the tape. This will make the area as strong as the regular board.

To prepare a hot patch, follow this procedure: First, cut the hole out square with a utility knife. This is so you can measure it easily and cut a patch the right size. Cut out a piece of drywall larger than the hole, leaving about two extra inches all the way around. Turn the drywall so you are looking at the backside. Measure from each left and right side, come in two inches, and draw or score a line with your utility knife. Cut along the line and break the drywall along that line. Peel off the drywall, leaving the front paper intact. (See Figure 6-13.)

Now, score two inches in toward center, from the top and bottom, and peel these parts off the front paper. This piece of drywall should fit into the hole, with two inches of paper around it. Put joint compound all around the hole. If you have torn any paper from the front of the drywall, put joint compound under the paper to avoid a blister. Place the patch into the hole and wipe down the paper around the hole. If it is done right, the patch should be flush with the paper, and a light coat of joint compound will cover it neatly.

PLUGGING A HOLE
A hot patch is best because of its strength, but some holes are too big for this method. Sometimes hangers make receptacle boxes (light box holes) by mistake. Then they simply leave the cutout piece of drywall in the hole. To fix this, carefully remove the drywall plug and put a long piece of tape across the hole. Use as many pieces of tape as necessary. To hold the plug from falling through the wall, then push the plug into it. Then wipe down the tape on each side where it is showing, to prevent the plug from falling back into the wall. Now tape the front as if it were
a receptacle box hole to cover. (See Figure 6-14.)

TAPING METAL CORNER BEAD AREAS
All corners inside windows and doorways need to be taped, or they will crack as the house settles. Outside corners that corner bead doesn’t cover will also crack unless they have been cut correctly (See Chapter 3). Any hole in an outside corner should be taped, or the joint compound will crack and fall out.

You will also find places where the drywall wasn’t cut right and the corner bead doesn’t overlap. You can tape these places to help hold the metal. If the metal is solidly attached but is bent and doesn’t fit tight to the drywall, it can be reinforced

• STEP 1 Here's a receptacle box cut out accidentally, in which the hanger has
  put a plug (piece of drywall).


• STEP 2 Remove the plug carefully and put a piece of tape across the hole.


• STEP 3 Leave it long on each side, and leave slack in the hole part of the plug.
  Push the plug back into the hole until it's flush with the wall. Tape the
  entire hole as if it were a patch.


• STEP 4 Overlap the tape by at least half the width of the tape.

FIGURE 6-14 Plugging a hole

the joint compound. Since tape won’t hold solidly, this should only be done for small areas. If the corner bead is not on tight or is otherwise faulty, it should be fixed.
(See Figure 6-15.)

TAPING AROUND PIPES
Drywall around all pipes should be made airtight. Holes should be prefilled and taped. Round tape, which comes in sizes to tit all pipes, can be bought at a drywall supply store. It saves enough time to be worth buying. If you don’t have round tape, you can make some by taking a short piece of tape and tearing out a hole the size of the pipe. If the pipe is big, take a piece of tape as large as necessary and tear out a half circle to tit each side of the pipe. You may need two or three pieces. (See Figure 6-16.)

TAPING AROUND BATHTUBS AND SHOWER UNITS
If the drywall doesn’t tit in behind the shower unit, it needs to be taped. Some



FIGURE 6-15 Taping corner bead






FIGURE 6-17 Taping a shower unit
the drywall, but sometimes it will be on top (in front) of the drywall. In. any case, it needs to be filled and taped in airtight to the bathtub or shower unit.

CRACKS IN BOARD
Sometimes drywall gets cracked on the back as it’s hung. Though the paper on the front side might not be broken or twisted, this area needs to be tapped.

NAILS AND SCREWS
For covering nail and screw holes, a seven- or eight-inch knife is better than a four-, five-, or six-inch one. The smaller knives are too stiff and will take off too much joint compound as you’re covering the holes. The seven- and eight-inch knives are more limber and will leave more joint compound without creating an edge.

When taping a house, you should hammer all nails in if they are sticking out past the board. You should also coat all nails when taping. If the paper is broken where a nail or screw missed the stud and was pulled out, it should be coated now and hammered later. After it is coated with joint compound it stays in better, so hammer the paper the second time around. Spotting nails takes some practice. All two or three sets of nails should be coated with two strokes of the knife.
Hold the knife vertically with the blade facing you (see Figure 6-18). Put joint compound on the top corner of the knife. Place the knife at the bottom of the first set of nails and spread upward, keeping pressure on the bottom edge of the knife.



When you reach the top, move the knife straight to one side, pulling it away from the joint compound, thus cleaning the joint compound from the edge of the blade. Now place the knife at the top of the joint compound you have just spread and pull straight down to remove any excess. In this way, you coat two or three sets of nails in one smooth action (see Figure 6-19).

• Step 1 Spread the knife with joint compound upward.


• Step 1A Joint compound is now spread over the nail area. Bring the knife off to the side, removing any excess joint compound from the knife.


• Step 2 On the return trip, wipe joint compound from the wall.


• Step 2A You will now be able to see the nail holes filled with joint compound and
  no edges of joint compound on the wall.


• Step 3 For the lower set of nails, spread the joint compound down the wall
  as shown.


• Step 3A You now have a layer of joint compound spread over the lower
  set of nails.


• Step 4 With the return stroke, wipe joint compound from the wall.


• Step 4A Filled nail holes are visible.

THE FIRST COAT
Applying the first coat is often called “bedding in.” Some people consider taping the first coat, but in this post series the first layer of joint compound placed over the tape will be called the first coat. There are several ways to coat. The type of job you are doing will determine the best method. Time studies of the different ways to finish drywall have revealed the most efficient and effective methods. A house that will have textured ceiling and walls needs only two coats. Quick set joint compound is a good choice for the first coat because it doesn’t shrink. A house that will have smooth walls needs three coats over bad butts and problem flats. The last coat is a very thin skim coat. Three coats can be done as fast as two because you don’t have to spend time making the first two neat. Remember that the third coat will smooth any scratches or lines your knife might leave. If you have to build up a lot of joint compound and need to leave an edge, you still have two coats left to smooth it out. A few terms need to be explained. These common practices should become habits.

FEATHER EDGE
When you spread joint compound over a joint or other area, run the knife along the edge of the joint compound, putting pressure on the outside edge of the joint compound. This blends the joint compound into the drywall without leaving a raised edge. This procedure is called feather edge.

BUILDING STRIP
A building strip is a strip of joint compound the width of the knife and feather edged on each side. It is useful for building a troublesome joint out farther.

THINGS TO WATCH FOR
Watch for ripples! Anytime you are spreading large amounts of joint compound, you will get ripples. They occur when you apply uneven pressure or tilt the knife slightly as you spread and work the joint compound. Many butt joints or trouble areas that require a lot of joint compound should be coated sideways for the third When coating butt joints, spread joint compound up to and across the adjacent flat joints, creating an overlapping effect.

When you are laying the first coat, the consistency of your joint compound should be as thick as possible. This minimizes shrinkage. (Less water, less shrinkage.) If you are using quick set, keep it neat because it is difficult to sand. Quick set doesn’t shrink, so when you are coating with it, don’t build up the joints any more than necessary. When using joint compound, build a little extra to allow for shrinkage. Some new joint compound products have very little shrinkage, so know the products you are using.

Where a flat joint meets an angle, coat the flat joint all the way into the center of the angle. You will still have to fill the beveled edge to the end of the wall. If the joint compound is wet when you coat the angle, cross right over the flat joint. Use a four-inch knife for the first coat and a five- or six-inch knife for the second coat. This way, the coats will overlap to the flat joint and fill completely. If you’re coating the angle only once, be sure to fill it sufficiently. For flat’s and butt’s first coat, use an eight-, ten-, or twelve-inch knife. For residential work with good hanging and tight joints, an eight-inch knife is fine. In commercial work with metal framing, the wider the joint the better, so a ten- or twelve-inch knife is recommended. If you are working for someone else, he or she might prefer a particular joint. Some architects, for example, will settle for nothing but a wide joint.

FIRST COATING BAD BUTT JOINTS
Butt joints are always coated first because they need extra drying time. Two basic methods are used to build a butt joint. Every butt is different. If you are just learning to be a finisher, you might wish to carry a yardstick with you. If you put the yardstick across the joint, you can see where the joint needs to be built up. A bad joint often has a high side and a low side. Build it in from the high side, and then bring it in gradually to the low side. How far out you build it depends entirely on how bad the joint is. The joint might require a lot of build up to camouflage the bulge. If the joint comes in sharp, it will have a shadow. (See Figure 6-20.)

A twelve-inch knife is best for coating bad butt joints. Fill the knife with joint compound and start at the bottom of the joint with the edge of the knife running along the tape. Spread the joint compound as evenly as possible. Now spread the joint compound on the other side of the tape. Feather edge along the outside on the high side (just along the outside edge of the joint compound). With the knife laid down, smooth out the high side of the butt, leaving just enough joint compound to cover the drywall and the tape. Now feather edge the low side of the joint compound. you get the joint built right but leave an edge of joint compound along the side, don’t worry about it. You can always cover it up with the second and third coats.



FIGURE 6-20 Applying the first coat to had butt joints


BUILDING STRIPS
If you have a really bad butt joint that needs more than twelve inches to build it out, you may have to use building strips to build it out farther. If so, spread joint compound along the side of the joint coated. Feather edge on both sides and second coat will be built from the high spot of each strip. This will fill in the middle and make it flat. You can use building strips to build any wall any distance.

FIRST COATING HEADERS TRIP
Headers are short butt joints over doorways and windows. When coating a header, extend the joint right into the center of the angle along the ceiling. If the door frames are are already on, it’s troublesome to work around them, but if you take the time to keep the door frame clean, you will save time later. If you have a butt or header to coat over a framed door, you will coat the header in a horizontal direction; later, you might need to coat downward from the top corner.

FIRST COATING GOOD BUTT JOINTS
Because a good butt joint leaves the tape sitting above the board, it should be built up on each side of the tape. This spreads out the joint and makes it less noticeable. If a joint is built up too much, it will cast a shadow on one or both sides of the tape and be very noticeable. It’s impossible to change the fact that the wall is built out around a joint, but it is possible to camouflage this buildup by keeping it as thin as possible.

Fill the knife with joint compound. Spread from one end of the tape to the other, keeping the edge of the knife along the tape. Now feather edge both sides of the joint compound. Lay the knife down and smooth the joint compound (The highest point of the joint compound should be just a little higher than the tape. It’s best if the tape is covered slightly.) Now spread the other side. Feather edge only the outside and smooth it down. If the joint is built right but the tape is showing, don’t worry-it will cover next time. If it’s not built high enough, the tape will be difficult to cover with the second coat. (See Figure 6-21.)

JOINT COMPOUND SPREADING TECHNIQUES
Metal on the ends of walls is coated next because it requires a lot of joint compound and takes a long time to dry. It’s best to learn with an eight-inch knife. Use the joint compound straight from the box or mixed with a small amount of water. The less water you use, the less shrinkage you will get. The object of coating metal is to produce a square corner. If the metal isn’t straight, you must build it straight with the joint compound. Sometimes the metal has a bow in it and needs to be built out around the bow.



FIGURE 6-21 Coating butt joints

Almost all outside corners of windows and doors need to be built out so they have a square surface. Most people coat metal a knife’s-length at a time across the metal Then they spread it out by running the knife straight down the metal. This procedure gives the inside of the metal too little joint compound and the outside too much. It's also a slow and difficult method.

Metal should be coated loosely. Too much pressure on a long knife bends it and gives an unsquare coat. Here’s the best way to coat metal. Take a knife-full he metal, scraping the joint of joint compound and slap it across the width of the compound onto the metal. Now you have a whole knife~full of joint compound at the top of the coating area. Place your knife above this joint compound and spread it down the metal, keeping pressure on the outside of the knife. As you pull downward keep the knife’s outside edge slightly in front, pushing the joint compound to the
center where it is needed. Now take another knife-full of joint compound and slap it on the drywall about halfway down the drywall. As you bend down, spread the joint compound until you reach the bottom of the wall. When you get close to the floor, you will still have a lot of joint compound on the knife. Scrape the remaining joint compound off on the metal. Quickly turn the knife around and spread the joint compound evenly up to meet the joint compound just spread on the top half of the metal. The knife should be held in the same manner, with pressure on the outside and the outside edge ahead of the inside edge pushing the joint compound to the inside where it is needed. Now the entire stick of metal is filled with joint compound. Feather edge along the entire length of joint compound along the outside edge, then smooth the joint compound over by laying the knife down and running it over the surface.

COATING METAL ENDS AND DOORWAYS
When coating a doorway or other area with more than one side, spread joint compound on two adjoining sides before smoothing it down on the first side. Otherwise, you will create problems on the first side when you’re spreading joint compound on the second side. When coating metal, slide a knife along the edge of the metal to take off excess joint compound. Don’t use the blade of the knife because this procedure will dull or nick it. (See Figure 6-22.)

METAL WRAPPED WINDOWS
A six-inch knife is best for the inside of the window, and a ten- or twelve-inch one for the outside, as joint compound usually needs to be built around the corners. Spread joint compound as shown in Figure 6-23, step 1. Fill areas l, 2, 3, and 4 with joint compound, feather edge the outer side of the joint compound, holding pressure on the outside edge of the knife. Smooth the joint compound down from area 1A to area 2A by pulling the knife across the top. Keep pressure on the outside of the knife for support. Don’t rest the other side of the knife against the metal.
This is a difficult procedure, so when you’re learning, it’s best not to pull around the corners. Just pull straight across, as shown in step 2. (If you go around the corner, you must change pressure and direction, and this will adversely affect your control.)

Now, place the knife above the top of the joint compound on the side of the window. Using the same technique, pull the knife from the top down the side of the window, as shown in step 3. The corners IA and 2A in the picture almost always need to be built up. (Note that if the knife is resting against the metal edge, it will leave a dent where it goes from one piece of metal to the other.) Make sure the knife floats over these corners.

Now go back with a six-inch knife and smooth down the inside of the window. Hold the knife down so it will leave as much joint compound as possible. If you have metal inside the windows against the glass, do not cover the strip-it will only crack later. In a case like this, coat up to the metal or plastic sweat strip (see L bead, Chapter 5). If there is no sweat strip against the window and the drywall board doesn’t fit tight against the window, it should be taped close enough so it can be caulked.

How-To: Drywall Finishing (Part I)

THE FOUR BASIC JOINTS

FLAT JOINTS
Drywall is made with two beveled edges. When the beveled edges of two pieces of drywall come together, they form what is called a flat joint (it isn’t really flat; see Figure 6-1). Flat joints are the easiest of all joints to finish because the recess that is formed is about % inch. This leaves plenty of room to embed the tape, cover it with joint compound, and still end up with a flat wall. However, if a stud is out of line or the hangers made a mistake, it’s the finisher’s job to straighten it out.

BUTT JOINTS
Butt joints rarely are found perfectly flush (see Figure 6-1). One board usually will sit slightly higher than the other, creating a high side and a low side. Bad butt joints are the most difficult to cover. With no beveled edge to set tape into, the tape has to sit on top of the board, with joint compound layered over that. Thus, bad butt joints cannot be made completely flat no matter what you do, but you can camouflage it to look flat.



FIGURE 6-1 Butt joint and flat joint cross section

ANGLES
The corners are very seldom taped square even by people trained in this field. If the tape is rounded, it will need to be finished with thick mud to look square. Too much mud will later crack. I will explain later in taping.

METAL OR CORNER BEAD
To save money on wood, builders are using more metal for framing windows and doors. Metal requires a lot of joint compound and is frequently shallow. Special care should be taken when coating windows and doors because it looks cheap when they are not square.

BASTARD ANGLES AND JOINTS
The term bastard angle refers to any joint that does not form a 90 ° angle. They take special attention which will be explained during each phase of this book.

PREPARING THE JOB FOR TAPING
Before you even get your tools and materials unloaded, check the house to make sure all boards are nailed off tight and all metal is on. Check to see if the job can be completed. If any boards are hung improperly, you will have to make two or three extra trips back after you finish to fix it. This is what finishers call punch out, things to fix after the job is done. Punch out wastes time and money; my motto is “Knock out punch out.”

Once you decide to go ahead with the job, make sure you have enough tools and materials to finish. Put them in a central location that can be reached easily from all over the house. Use this location as a work area. Since someone will be working on the ceiling in this room, check this room first and arrange the tools on the floor directly under one board. This will make it easier for the person on stilts to reach the ceiling joints.

Then go through the rest of the house, checking it carefully. Pick a starting point and follow the wall all the way through the house. Anywhere the board is broken or cracked, pull it off and prefill it. It will never finish properly if it’s loose and moves at all. Remember, the house will be settling. Often, the drywall has been pried with something, and the edge is broken. Tear the paper off and prefill it. Check all butt joints. Bad butt joints should be prefilled. Receptacle boxes (the holes through which the wires are threaded) should be prefilled with joint compound along the edge that needs repairing. Make them strong enough to hold when the outlet cover goes on. Receptacle boxes are sometimes forced when they are covered with drywall. Maybe a wire doesn’t fit right under the drywall. Sometimes a hanger puts the drywall on and nails it tight. Then it cracks behind the board. The paper may the broken drywall and prefill it so it can be taped later on. Prefill any big cracks. (See Figures 6-2 through 6-4.)



FIGURE 6-2 The receptacle box shows a soft spot where the board has been broken underneath. The drywall immediately around it must be cut out and repaired. Hangers often break the corners



FIGURE 6-3 Loose drywall has been removed from the receptacle box. If the hole is too big and the joint compound falls behind the wall, place tape across the hole and push it in a little to act as a holder for the joint compound.



FIGURE 6-4 The receptacle box has been taped to act as a holder for the joint compound. If the joint compound still won't stay in place use more tape on top of it to hold it in.

TAPING

TAPING ORDER

When you tape, you should use a four-, five-, or six-inch knife, and you should
tape the room in an orderly and efficient manner.

Butts and Headers
Headers are the vertical joints over doors and windows. In a house, butts includes all vertical joints except the corners. These are all joints that are not made by factory (beveled) edges. These are all taped and coated like butt joints. When taping, always do butts and headers first, since they require the most joint compound and drying time.

Flat Joints
Flat joints are those that are made by factory (beveled) edges. These are taped
second.

Angles
Angles are the corners. They should be taped third. Receptacle Boxes, Etc. Receptacle boxes, switch boxes, metal, pipes, and the like should be taped last. If you tape in this order, you will gain speed and efficiency. Also, your chances of forgetting something are minimized. Remember, you want to work as fast as you can but still do the job right. If you work too fast, you’ll do sloppy work, and it will slow you down during the following steps of the process. Any joint compound that goes on where it doesn’t belong will have to come off sooner or later. There are three ways to tape. The first is to do it by hand, the second is to use a banjo (which is much faster), and the third is to use the automatic taping tools. The third method is for the professional. I will explain hand taping and the banjo as I describe each kind of joint.

TAPING BY HAND
Work with joint compound straight out of the box, or as thick as possible. Never it down. The reason for this is that when the joint compound starts to dry, it doesn’t stick as well. It also leaves air pockets, which develop into blisters. Spread the joint compound along a joint. Place the tape on top and use the knife to smooth the tape, leaving the tape smoothed out on top of the joint compound.

USING THE BANJO OR TAPING TOOL
The banjo is fairly inexpensive at about $85.00. If cared for properly, it will last indefinitely. This tool can be filled with joint compound with tape threaded through it. When you pull the tape out the end, it is already covered on one side with joint compound. This makes taping twice as fast.

Taping tools must be watched carefully when you’re first learning to use them. If you run low on joint compound and you’re not aware of it, you can have pieces of tape with no joint compound on them. This will leave blisters. So as the joint compound runs low, you will need to watch the joint compound-coated side of the tape as it comes out of the banjo.

Joint compound for the banjo should be diluted with water so it will pass through the tool more easily. However, if it’s too thin, it will drip on the floor as you tape, making quite a mess. Depending on the type of joint compound used, you will have to adjust the amount of water to thin it just right.

TAPING BAD BUTTS AND HEADERS
As a result of your earlier preparations, all bad butt joints should now be prefilled. Now go ahead and spread more joint compound right over joint compound that’s already there-even if it’s not dry. You want only the thinnest layer of joint compound between the high side of the joint and the tape, because you’re trying to make this as flush as possible. Make sure the tape is in contact with the joint compound, or it won’t stick. The low side should be as smooth as possible, with the tape sitting on the built-up joint compound. When smoothing excess joint compound from under the tape, hold the knife in a laid-down position. (See Figure 6-5.) Hold the knife with light pressure on the high side of the joint, floating over the built-up low side so you don’t pull any joint compound away from it. Don’t put too much pressure on the high side or you will take too much joint compound out from under the tape and cause a blister. By laying the knife down, you can control the amount of joint compound taken from under the tape. The more the knife is held out at an angle.



FIGURE 6-5 Knife positioning

USING THE TAPING TOOL TO TAPE BAD BUTTS
Bad butt joints must be prefilled before you use the banjo. The reason for this is that the banjo doesn’t lay down enough joint compound to build with. Be extra careful wiping them down: because butts create such an uneven surface, they blister easily. It’s easy to push out too much joint compound on the high spots. A knife will put even pressure on an uneven surface. Sometimes when the butt joint is bumpy and rough, it’s better just to run your hand over the tape and press the joint compound into all low areas.

TAPING FLUSH BUTT JOINTS
Flush butt joints are rare, and they must be coated differently than bad butt possible. This will make it easier to achieve a flush finish. You will probably have a few blisters before you find out how close you can get the tape. You need to build joint compound up on both sides of the tape in order to make it appear flush. (See Figure 6-6.)



FIGURE 6-6 Taping butt joints

TAPING FLAT JOINTS BY HAND
If they are hung and taped right, flat joints are the easiest part of drywall finishing. Flat joints are those made by the beveled edges of the board. (See Figure 6-7). Spread plenty of joint compound along the flat joints to secure the tape to the joint. When you roll out the tape, stretch it out, leaving no slack. Otherwise, you



will end up with wrinkles when you start wiping the tape down. A four-inch knife is the best tool for pressing the tape inside the recess. You can use a six-inch knife, but it needs to be limber and you have to apply quite a bit of pressure on it to push it in deep. If the tape sits above the recess, the joint must be built round instead of flat, so be careful. For a better finish, make the best use of those beveled edges.

TAPING FLAT JOINT S WITH A TAPING TOOL
When taping flat joints with the banjo, hold the banjo by the handle at the top. Pull a few feet of tape out, and place the end of the tape on the flat joint at a starting place. Then run your hand over the tape to stick it to the joint, keeping pressure on the tape while pulling the banjo along with the other hand. Hold the tape tight so it doesn’t slip. Repeat this all along the wall. When you reach the end of the wall and are ready to cut the tape, hold the cutting blade against the tape and twist.

The blade will cut easily if it is kept sharp. When taping with the banjo, you don’t have to worry about having too much joint compound in the recess, as the tape will at nicely into it. You can use a six-inch knife quite comfortably.

TAPING ANGLES OR CORNERS BY HAND
For taping angles or corners by hand, a four-inch knife is recommended because of the straighter edge on the side of the knife. Many finishers make their own knives for corners, cutting the sides of regular knives so they are straight. Because you turn your knife around to put joint compound on the wall, you might forget which corner of the knife to put the joint compound on. Put joint compound on the left corner of the knife to coat the right side of the angle, and on the right corner for the left side of the angle.

Spreading joint compound on the first side of the angle is easy. When spreading the second side, though, be careful not to let the side of the knife scrape the joint compound off the first side. Otherwise, you will have a blister where there’s no joint compound. When spreading joint compound on the second side, hold the knife down flat, tilting it sideways away from the adjacent wall. This way, only the corner of the knife will be working in the center. (See Figure 6-8).

Wiping down corner tape can also create problems. Use a four-inch knife because the side of the knife is straighter and helps prevent pushing the tape back into any cracks. Holding the knife out straight from the wall helps make the corner square. If a corner is rounded, it has to be built up thick with joint compound to make it



FIGURE 6-8 Spreading joint compound on angles

To fold the tape for angles, you can thread it through a tape creaser tool, or you can simply pull it through your hand, as shown in Figure 6-9.

TAPING ANGLES WITH TAPING TOOLS
Hold the banjo by the side handle (there should be a cloth handle through which you can slide your hand). Pull out some tape and push it into the corner, running your fingers down the center to stick the tape well into the corner. As you do so, keep the tape pulled out tight, maintaining pressure on it. Continue pressing into the center. Pull the tape out another few feet and repeat the procedure. When you get to the floor, twist the blade to cut the tape. The tape should always be left an inch or so from the floor. You never know what kind of trim will go around the base, so tape down as low as you can. Push the tape in tight the rest of the way

CREASING TAPE


FIGURE 6-9 To fold the tape for angles, thread it through a tape creaser tool, or simply pull it through your hand in this fashion: Hold your hand around the tape as shown. Close your thumb and pull the tape through your hand, taking care not to cut your hand.

TAPING CEILING ANGLES
Where different angles join (such as ceiling corners), be sure to get the tape all the way into the corners. Otherwise, you will leave a hole that will be visible from across the room. Merely pushing joint compound into the corner without taping it won’t work because the joint compound will fall out of the hole. (See Figure 6-10).

BASTARD ANGLES, INSIDE AND OUTSIDE
A bastard angle is any angle that is other than 90°. It usually has a big crack



FIGURE 6-10 Taping ceiling angles

bad inside angles should already have been prefilled with joint compound when you prepared the job for taping. If it is a fairly straight angle, it can be taped in the usual way. If it has a deep side, prefill and flat tape it, and then apply an angle piece of tape. Take care to avoid pushing the tape into the deep crack. If the angle is crooked and has big pieces broken or cut out of it, you should use flex bead on it.

USING FLEX BEAD ON INSIDE CORNERS
To use flex bead, measure and cut the strip to the necessary length with tin snips. Crease it by folding it in the middle, keeping it as straight as possible. Spread on a lot of joint compound, place your creased flex bead in position, and wipe it down.

USING FLEX BEAD ON OUTSIDE CORNERS
Flex bead on an outside bastard corner is applied in the same way as it is on an inside corner, except that you must pinch the edge and check for straightness. Flex bead twists very easily, and if it isn’t straight, it will adversely effect the appearance of the job. Flex bead also needs to be pinched out just enough to allow the joint compound to coat the angle and clear the tape. (See Figure 6-11.)

You might need to use metal corner bead. Corner bead comes only in a 90° angle. Here’s how to bend it to the angle you need: Lay the corner bead on the floor, take a piece of one-inch pipe conduit about a foot long. place this inside the



FIGURE 6-11 Flex bead

can use this metal on inside or outside bastard angles and corners. A flexible plastic corner bead is now available. You may find this easier to use.

TAPING RECEPTACLE BOXES
Receptacle boxes are difficult to get exact each time and they are frequently missed by the hanger. If missed by more than a quarter inch, they should be taped, you don’t know which outlet covers will be used, it’s better to just go ahead and tape them. If you have to come back later and fix the job, it will cost you. Any broken board should have been repaired already. If the prefilled hole is three inches in diameter or bigger, it must be reinforced. A good-sized hole can be made as strong as the rest of the wall if it is done right. If a hole is bigger than about five inches across, it will need a hot patch.

When taping these holes, overlap the tape, making sure the back of the tape is coated with joint compound even over the hole. Tape at least three inches past the hole on each side to secure it well. Overlap the pieces of tape by at least half of the tape’s width. When this is dry, you should be able to press the middle in just a little. When filled with joint compound and coated, it will be strong. If the hole is deep, it may need to be taped again to reinforce the joint compound. If you retape do it in the opposite direction for extra strength. (See Figure 6-12.)

THE HOT PATCH
The hot patch is a method used to fill and smooth holes in the drywall up to about a foot square. For ceilings, though, this method can be used only for small holes because of the weight of the drywall used for the hot patch. On the walls, any hole bigger than a foot should be cut back to the stud. Then the drywall should be nailed or screwed into place.